If you look for a cigar lounge in Helsinki, you very likely need to go to the Central railway station. Actually it's not so unheard of, Bertolt Brecht went there too. In 1940-41 he fled Nazis to Finland. Before moving on to the countryside, he used to spend time at the station and leisurely ponder on.

His novel "Conversations in Exile" (d. Flüchtlingsgespräche, s. Pakolaiskeskusteluja) takes place here, in the station restaurant. From this book comes the quote "Finns are silent in two languages".

I don't know exactly how the bars and restaurants were arranged in the 40s, but today's aficionado is best off at The Pullman Bar in the east wing. At the door you get greeted by an unusually friendly (Helsinki standards are abysmal) bouncer and stairs lead up to a spacious lounge with a view over the main hall of the station. Wood paneling, leather couches, good choice of whiskies and tobacco products. Behind closed doors is the cabinet of Press Club.

Despite Brechts and cigars, this all still belongs to the commoners' railway station. Next to the east entrance there's a tall wooden door sided by stone men. These statues are symphatetic miniatures of the huge stone men over at the main entrance. They guard the entrance to the private waiting lounge, designated exlusively for the use of the President of the Republic.

In 1940 President Kallio spent here last his moments, waiting for the train to carry him out to retirement. Soon after stepping out to the platform he died from a stroke before the honorary guard, into the arms of Marshal Mannerheim - another president to come. Paasikivi wasn't president yet in 1939, but he made a life's work out of negotiating with Soviet Union. Indeed, the concept of "Moscow train" has a certain aura that strongly resonates with the cabinets and granite walls of the Station.

Kekkonen was the last president with a strong presence at the Station. Straight after his 1960 trip, he called up a meeting with his cabinet in his waiting lounge. That was the last generally known state use of the lounge. In 1961 Kekkonen was already found on Hawaii. Four years later he was spotted in a palm tree in Tunisia. Apparently presidents have gone permanently airborne.